Showing posts with label Twillingate. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Twillingate. Show all posts

Saturday, July 08, 2017

Newfoundland post #3


When last I left off, I was wrapping up my week in Twillingate. I had packed the car in preparation for a morning departure, had dinner with Trudy and started back to my place, telling her, "I'm cold and tired. Just going to chill for the evening". Couldn't do it. There was the most amazing sunset and I drove down through the town to where I could see across the harbour. Here's what I saw:


I took over 200 pictures. I'll let you know when I've gone through them and chosen my favourite! I was in front of someone's house when I shot this. Imagine looking out at a scene like this from your window. I wonder if the house is for sale...

On the way back to my place, I decided to do a "blue hour" shot from a hilltop overlooking Main Street.


So much for skipping the evening shoot and going to bed. 



I did get underway in the morning. I drove the loop through Musgrave Harbour and Cape Freels (because I could) before hitting Gambo and the TCH (Trans Canada Highway, to you folks from 'away') on the way to Trinity. The first couple of hours was boring, through forested road, even though I strayed onto back roads to see if there was anything interesting to see. 

By the way, my photo book from 2006 was called, "The Path of Least Potholes". You don't drive in your lane in Newfoundland. You follow the Path... and beware of the black potholes. They're black because you can't see the bottoms. They can eat your car.

I stopped in Deadman's Cove to shoot a salmon stream (not a great photo) and talk to a fisherman who bemoaned the fact that the cold weather this winter has delayed the return of the salmon. A little further was Lumsden, where I ventured as far as i could before dropping the car in a crater.


Could this be an ad for Subaru? A lot more attention to detail than you think went into this shot. And are those icebergs? You bet, and we're not done with them yet! 


Another Subaru shot.   

Moving right along, I came to a town called "Newtown" because Trudy told me not to miss it.


Iconic picture, or what? These towns all have their well maintained, beautiful churches. Newtown has new housing developments and is a gorgeous place.  Pretty far from the main stream, though.


It is a beautiful little town, though. 



Next stop, Trinity. When I got there, it was almost dark, and a thick fog had run in from the sea. I tried without success to get a shot. I also tried to buy groceries... Gas station/convenience store was all she wrote. Found the essentials, and bought more groceries the next day in Bonavista where they had a real store.

Despite taking my time the next morning settling in, the day turned into an eventful one. First I headed for Elliston and the Puffin Viewing Site.  Here are a few shots


Puffin Portrait. If you want to know how this puffin was enticed to come to the mainland side of the viewing area, you'll have to be a subscriber to my blog (click the newsletter icon at upper right. No spam will come your way). 


I managed some birds in flight. These guys are very fast and deceptive so I didn't get all the shots I wanted, so I'll have to go back again. 
By the way I met Hartmut and his wife Eva from Berlin. I had first met them in Twillingate. They're here for an extended stay and Hartmut takes brilliant pictures with his Sony equipment. After carrying 40 pounds of gear out to the puffin site and later on the boat I'm about to tell you about, I'm sorely tempted...


That's Hartmut in the green jacket and blue cap.  


The viewing area is about a 500m walk from the road. Some serious photographers are there: if you search for a puffin holding a lily in its beak, that lady on the blanket (a photographer from Toronto whose name escapes me) took it a few years ago. 


I also saw this cormorant fly by. There are tons of other birds there. 



The Puffins all took a lunch break around noon. I hung around for a couple more hours with just sporadic sightings, then took my leave. I drove to Bonavista to get some groceries, then I got sidetracked...

I chatted with Bob, who runs Discovery Sea Adventure Tours and decided to join his 5:00 pm tour. "Which of those big beautiful boats is yours, Bob?"


This one. A Zodiac with some serious horsepower on the back. I should have known better. Oh, well, it did say "Adventure"! I was sitting on that bench up front. There were 8 passengers on board, plus Bob.


They fitted us into thousand dollar floater suits. As if that would have made a difference if we tumbled into the sea five miles offshore. Why is it that when you give someone your camera, they always cut your feet off? 

Seriously. Captain Bob said, after we came in, "I didn't expect it to be that windy and rough...". Folks, 2m swells, at times we leapt off the crest of one wave onto the next but usually we came crashing down in the troughs, getting negative Gee's and spine crushing impact when we landed. Next time I'll choose a different seat. And take a smaller camera.



OK, I'm cheating. I did NOT shoot this picture from the boat.
Picture these seas only twice as high, with whitecaps. 



And you thought I was done with icebergs. Hah! He estimated this one was 70-80m high. You get a different perspective when you're up close and personal. 


And here's another perspective! Same iceberg 

My logic was flawed. I was thinking that we'd get close to some birds, so I wanted the long reach of the Tamron 600mm on the crop sensor body. But you CANNOT handhold that and track anything when you're on a moving Zodiak, even when you're out of the big waves. And i thought, for whales, my 70-200 on my D800 would be good. Next time I'll stick with that and put the little kit lens on the D5500. Besides, the D800/70-200 combo is more weatherproof. And it did get wet. Salt water, too!


I did get this shot of a puffin from the water. With the long lens. Not good enough for printing, but OK for posting online. I'll have to do some painting on it if I want to print it. 


The Bonavista lighthouse from sea. I'll shoot it again from land in a few days 



Parting Shot


Trinity, Newfoundland by moonlight.
I hope you enjoy these "Blue Hour" shots as much as I do. 

A few more days here in Trinity. Exploring landscapes and seascapes. Visiting the Lighthouse and "Dungeons" in Bonavista. Back to the Puffin site. Hopefully the Capelin will be rolling (look it up!) and I'll get some whale shots. Onward!


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Tuesday, July 04, 2017

On the Rock at last

As I write this, my week in Twillingate is coming to a close. I leave tomorrow morning for Trinity, looking to see the Puffins and hopefully whales at Elliston and Bonavista.

By the way, I met up with an acquaintance from the past. I had met Trudy Blugerman through Lori some years ago. She's here for the summer, spending several weeks in Twillingate.  Great tour guide, except she likes to hike too much for me!




In Newfoundland, July 1 is more of a memorial day than a commemoration of Canada's birth. They hold ceremonies all over the province to remember the Newfoundland regiment decimated in World War 1.  There was a wreath-laying ceremony in Twillingate as well.



Twillingate is about icebergs. This time of year, anyway. At one point I climbed to the outlook at Pikes Arm where you can see across the channel to the Change Islands and in the distance, Fogo Island. That's "Iceberg Alley".




It was an arduous climb up what seemed like 1000 steps. I brought only my long lens with me so I couldn't get a panorama (forgot my iPhone too!) so this is just a narrow view of the channel 

If you thought the icebergs were small, guess again.




From the same spot. Does this give you a sense of scale? And the locals say that sometimes the 'bergs are kilometers long. 

I have so many iceberg shots I don't know what to show you. Here are a couple more:








I shot this from the knoll overlooking the town of Crow Head at sunset. There were a number of photographers there and they all went home just before I shot this! (heh, heh!). 

Icebergs have blue streaks going through them and sometimes they're positioned so that you can see the light right through them. I'll leave it to you and your friend "Google" to figure out why!




I shot this from "Skipper Jim's" boat while on a tour. That's one way to get to see icebergs 'up close and personal'.  





Skipper Jim and the Galactic Mariner.



An Osprey chick on the nest, as seen from Jim's boat. 

There are lots of birds here. I saw gannets dive bombing for herring, but I don't have good pictures (yet!).










Black-backed Gull about to take off




Greater Yellowlegs in a tidal pool 






I said I wasn't going to turn this into a travelogue, but that seems to be what I did. Forgive me! Too many pictures,  it's hard to choose what to share! Let's get back on track.




Twillingate is also about rustic outports and fishing stages (that's what the little shack/pier combinations are called). A little bit picturesque ('ya think?')




Trudy knew the gentleman who built/owns this stage. I ended up coming back here and as we speak, I have started an oil painting (not of this one but its neighbour). 


 
While I was working on my painting, I found a little chunk of iceberg floating just in front of me. I hacked off a couple of pieces and took them home.


A glass of million-year-old icewater. Went well to wash down my dinner from last night . Blow it up to see the refracted image in the glass stem!


"when in Rome..."



Parting shots

Last night I went up to the Long Point Lighthouse in Crow Head hoping for some star shots. The moon was too bright, but I did get this one:



 
And if you ever travel to Newfoundland, don't neglect the West coast. This is just outside a little town called "Three Rock Cove" and it's on a peninsula called "Port au Port" just outside Stephenville. Give it a day in that area, not an hour like I did (if I come back that way, I'll spend more time there).



 
More to come!

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